I think Paula Begoun is wrong. Again.

According to Paula Begoun:

"Are retinoids exfoliants?

(...) Why the confusion about the effect retinoids can have on the skin? Primarily it's due to the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, resulting in the skin becoming flaky and dry. This flaking and dryness is not exfoliation, nor is it a desirable or advantageous result. (...)"

www.cosmeticscop.com/bulletin/082808-full.htm

According to Retin-A's drug description leaflet:

"(...) Mode of Action: (...), current evidence suggests that the effectiveness of tretinoin in acne is due primarily to its ability to modify abnormal follicular keratinization. Comedones form in follicles with an excess of keratinized epithelial cells. (...)"

So, I think tretinoin is a esfoliant...

Accordint to Paula Begoun:

"(...) If retinoids cause your skin to be consistently dry and flaky, it is a problem and you should probably avoid products that contain it or reduce how often you use them. (...)"

In part I agree with Paula Begoun, but what means "consistently"?

According to Dr. Fulton, MD Ph.D and co-developer of Retin-A:

"2. I am using Retin A® but I do not seem to clear up.

When I developed Retin A® in 1969, it was quite an irritating formula. The more the skin peeled the better the acne would respond. However, during this peeling phase all the acne impactions are coming out so there may be an appearance of flare up of the acne condition as all of the impactions are being evacuated. Once all the pores are clear, the acne is under control and not visible . Also, if a patient is considering Retin A®, they should use the Retin A® gel and not the Retin A® cream. The Retin A® cream contains isopropyl myristate, which is an aggravator of the acne condition and sometimes patients will get worse because the formulation of the Retin A® cream. There are also new formulations of the Retin A® on the market, such as Micro Retin A® that are better formulated creams than the previous product. The key is to keep the skin visibly peeling in order to get a rapid clear up. If there is no peeling whatsoever, your particular formulation is not working very effectively on your skin. You should see at least a little peel once a week to know you are at the right therapeutic level. Also, you may need to work with your physician or esthetician during this early phase to help extract our all the acne impactions that are coming to the surface. This will lead to a more rapid resolution of the problem."

www.pfshop.com/infopages/acne.asp